The Lowfield Inn, Marton, Shropshire

Marton, Shropshire, SY21 8JX.
01743 891313
www.lowfieldinn.com

Like many of my fellow foodies, I’ve found recent weeks a bit frustrating – snow, ice, more snow, and, according to restaurateurs – shortage of consumer funds due to a maxing out on credit cards during December.

To counteract the gloom I jumped in my car and made my way with my guest to The Lowfield Inn at Marton on the Shropshire/Powys border. Like Princess Diana, I felt that there were three of us in on this relationship: me, my human companion, and the necessary evil of my sat nav who took us all the way there - lazy I know, but I didn't want to find myself in the Welsh hills, for no other reason than time constraints.

On seeing the Lowfield as we turned the bend on the windy country lane, I could not help slow down to a crawl, "Is it a new-build made to look old, or an old pub, sympathetically restored?" I asked out loud, to both companions. 

There was a warm welcome on a cold day and a smiling face behind the bar offering us drinks, and menus.

The pub is very well laid out, with a community room to the right, pool table and games, and the main pub restaurant through double doors to the left, kept well separated so the drinkers don't disturb the diners. 

The main seating area has a focal point of a roaring burner and there are soft sofas and an eclectic mix of large farmhouse tables and chairs, leading through to the main restaurant with stunning views across the fields to the Welsh hills and beyond. We sat in a corner surrounded by books, overlooking the fire.

The menu is extensive, with a good range - a la carte with traditional British choices and international favourites like Thai fishcakes with bean sprout and cashew nut salad and sweet chilli dipping sauce (£5.50) and a main of creamy tiger prawn curry with basmati rice and naan bread (£10).

There was also a 'Beat the Recession' menu with two courses for £13.25 or three for £16.75which I went for. My guest who is not a big red meat eater chose the tiger prawn cocktail with apple and marie rose sauce (£5.50), and my starter was salad of mini jacket potatoes topped with blue cheese sour cream and crispy smoked bacon. 

On the specials board they had a 'wine of the day' a Friulano La Delizia described as a fresh, aromatic white from Italy. I thought it inoffensive, light and medium dry, but my guest, who does know her wines, was not so keen, thinking it sweeter than dry. She did point out it was her preference to err on the very dry side, and the description of a 'dry finish' was accurate enough.

The starters arrived with smiles and descriptions. The prawn cocktail was served in a glass tumbler, strange but kitsch and my 'mini' jacket starter could have been a main. We tucked in, enjoying the flavours, and textures, the prawns were of a good size, succulent and with a tangy sauce. My jackets were well cooked, not micro-blitzed, and the crisp bacon worked well with the blue cheese. (And the wine I thought.)

Mains were more of a challenge, at the outset it took three visits for the friendly waitress to leave with a result for the kitchen, largely down to the wide choice. 

We finally landed on roast chicken breast, Lyonnaise potatoes and onion gravy (£11) and keeping on the recession beater I went for the Cajun chicken salad, with leek mayonnaise, swapping the new potatoes with chips.

We both commented on the tenderness and flavour of the chicken on each dish, mine was clearly marinated in the Cajun spices and remained juicy, and my guest's was complemented by the mustard and whisky sauce, which worked well. 

Desserts were a good selection of traditional favourites including apple crumble served with cinnamon ice cream (or custard) as well as a warm chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce and chocolate ice cream. 

My guest's choice was warm treacle tart with cream, custard, or ice cream - we decided to try from the wide selection of ice cream from Churchstoke :a ginger for me, and a brandy and clotted cream.

The tart was reassuringly misshapen and piping hot. It did appear that it had over heated on baking, as they often do, and I think some of the treacle had escaped, but none the less, this was a good flavour, sweet, and with proper pastry. 

My ice cream had a light, but distinct flavour of the ginger and I was struck by the creaminess of the milk. They must be happy cows.

All in all the Lowfield experience was most enjoyable throughout with proper traditional hospitality and a recommended trip for all, but is it an old pub made new... or a new pub made old? Well, go and see for yourself. 

The bill for two including all drinks and extra ice cream was £47.85. All desserts are £4.75. Many items on the menu are discounted for children and seniors with a 'smaller appetite' and rooms are available from £45. 

The Reviewer

James Day is a 'Virtual-Foodie' who edits popular food news and reviews website Eat the Midlands which carries up to date articles covering all things foodie in the region, alongside reviews written whilst on his travels around our finest eateries meeting with chefs, and local producers.

James also runs the Midlands Lifestyle Dining Club, Gourmet Life which offers the regions foodies exclusive discounts at some of the finest restaurants in the region - which must meet strict selection criteria, including sourcing at least 20% of their main a la carte menu from the region.

James' other project includes running the popular and established county wide dining guide Dine With Us.